Repairing Concrete Edges & Corners

Repair broken edges and corners on concrete steps, curbs, slabs and walls without the use of forms with QUIKRETE Quick-Setting Cement, along with QUIKRETE Acrylic Fortifier.

Project Instructions:
When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.

Step 1:
Clean the surface of the damaged area by removing any loose material such as dirt, oil, or grease, and unsound or flaking concrete.

TIP: unsound or flaking concrete can be removed by using a hammer and chisel, or with a masonry grinding disk and a portable drill.

Step 2:
Scrub and clean the surface of the repair area with a stiff bristle brush.

Step 3:
Thoroughly rinse the repair area after cleaning.

Step 4:
Mix the Quick-Setting Cement using a margin trowel by adding 5 parts Cement to 1 part QUIKRETE Acrylic Fortifier until a lump-free, putty consistency is achieved. It is important not to add more water or Acrylic Fortifier after the material has begun to set.

TIP: if the mix is too wet, add additional Quick-Setting Cement and mix thoroughly; if the mix is too dry, add small amounts of Acrylic Fortifier sparingly.

Step 5:
Dampen the repair area with enough water to saturate the surface (any standing water should be removed).

Step 6:
Use a masonry brush to apply a thin coating of the Quick-Setting Cement and Acrylic Fortifier mixture.

Step 7:
Using a margin trowel, press the cement into the repair area using firm trowel pressure.

Step 8:
Continue to build and sculpt the Quick-Setting Cement so that the surface of the repair is above the surrounding concrete.

Step 9:
In about 5 to 10 minutes once the patch has become thumbprint hard, use the edge of a margin trowel to mold and shape the repair to match the contour of the surrounding concrete.

How to Refinish Your Wood Deck

Refinishing your wood deck every few years is necessary maintenance.

Start by cleaning the deck with a deck cleaner of your choice. Cover your plants and avoid painted areas. After cleaning, be sure to rinse the deck really well. Then, let it sit for 2 days. GNH recommends using Cabot Exterior Stain to protect your surfaces from the elements and provide the highest level of waterproofing protection available. Cabot Exterior Stain comes in a variety of choices from clear to a solid deck stain. Pigment helps protect from the sun’s UV damage.

Install Exterior Window Yourself

Replacing your windows is a great way to make your home more energy efficient, and can help you save money by lowering your heating and cooling bills. Replacing your own windows is not as difficult as you might think, and GNH can help you with your Marvin window installation.

Once you have removed your old windows and are ready to install your new windows, you can make things easier by first removing the new window panes from the frame so that it is easier to move the frame around. To get your frame in the opening, gently tilt it in place. Once it is in, make sure the frame is level and that all the sides are plumb and lined up correctly. You can now add the panes back in as this will help square up the frame. After they are in, check along the bottom to make sure the reveal is the same. Using long 10- or 12-penny finish nails, nail in at least 3 nails per side. However, check the specifications from the manufacturer first just to be sure.

Finally, pack insulation along the sides, bottom, and top of the window, and finish the outside of the window with flashing to stop air infiltration.

Remember, if you have any questions about installations, just call our specialists at GNH Lumber.

How To Install Engineered Wood Exterior Siding

Installing new exterior siding is a surefire way to improve both your home’s aesthetics and curb appeal! Plus, when you use trusted brands like LP® SmartSide®, installation is a snap! Join our host, Jeff Wilson, as he describes the benefits of engineered wood exterior siding and demonstrates a few installation tips.

Starting with the Trim

Because exterior siding is considered a cladding material, it is necessary to have a weather or vapor barrier properly installed behind the siding. Be sure all windows, doors, and wall penetrations are properly flashed and sealed. Select trim that is compatible with the siding panels. You want the trim to be thicker than the siding, to allow for proper sealing where the siding butts into the trim.

Engineered wood siding typically butts into the trim pieces, so it is necessary to start by installing the trim at the windows and doors. This is much like building a frame around the windows, so be sure to account for the width of the trim when measuring to cut these pieces. Outside corners are typically trimmed with two overlapping trim boards. For the inside corners, rip a square cross-section, like a 2 x 2, to allow the siding panels to butt squarely into the corner trim. Eave trim and roof trim can typically be installed later, once appropriate scaffolding is set up to safely reach and work on these areas.

Installing the Siding

Once you have installed the majority of the trim, you’re ready to begin installing the exterior siding panels from the bottom up. Generally, a starter piece is installed underneath the first course to simulate the typical overlap and to orient the panel at the proper angle. This project is using an 8″-wide siding with a 1″ overlap, resulting in a 7″ reveal.

  • Use a table saw to rip a 1″-wide strip of the siding.
  • The starter strip must be installed level and properly spaced from whatever is below it.
  • For an installation over wood frame walls that sit on a concrete or masonry foundation, the starter strip should be installed with the bottom about 1″ below the joint between the wood framing and the foundation walls.
  • For an installation over an adjacent floor protrusion, like a wood deck, the clearance should be about 1″, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
  • For an installation over masonry or other surface that extends below grade, the starter strip should be installed at least 6″–8″ above grade.

Attaching the Exterior Siding

To fasten the siding, use galvanized nails sized to penetrate at least 11/2” into the studs. Whether the substrate is plywood sheathing or foam insulation, most manufacturers require the siding to be fastened into the studs. Ring-shank nails are a popular choice for fastening the siding because they have screw-like rings that offer additional protection against nail pullout. Place the nail about 1/2” – 3/4” from the top of the siding panel to allow the nail to be covered by the 1” overlap of the next row.

If you are using a pneumatic nail gun, be sure that the pressure of the nail gun is set to sink the nails flush with the surface of the wood. If you find a few that have not been sunk far enough, hand-nail them flush. If they go in too far, you should caulk and seal the hole prior to painting.

Cutting the Exterior Siding

Engineered wood siding is as easy to cut as any engineered wood, like oriented strand board (OSB) plywood or structural laminated lumber. Any of the conventional woodworking tools, from handsaws to jigsaws, are applicable for cutting engineered wood siding.

  • A power miter saw with a 10” blade works well for standard crosscuts, perpendicular to the length of the siding panel, as well as angled cuts, as you may need against eaves.
  • A table saw is useful for ripping long lengths of the panels, both for starter strips and for long pieces at window and door heads and at the top course under the eaves.
  • A jigsaw is useful for cutting notches around trim and vents.

When measuring to cut specific lengths of siding, be sure to account for a small gap at each end that will allow for the thermal expansion of the siding. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for specific requirements; generally this is about 3/16”. This gap will be caulked later. Where you have areas that are longer than the siding panels, you will also need to plan for a vertical butt joint (with expansion gap) to fall on a stud.

Staging the Project

Typically you’ll want to work with a partner on a siding project, with one person at each end of the siding board. In that case, use a siding gauge to evenly space each course for the 7″ reveal. A simple siding gauge can be made from a piece of scrap plywood. If you happen to be working on the siding installation by yourself, locking siding gauges are available that provide a seat designed to equally space and hold the next piece of siding for hands-free fastening. As you work up the wall, check the courses for level every third or fourth course. If you find that you’re starting to get out of whack, you can make minor adjustments over a few courses to get back on track.

Ladders and scaffolding may also be necessary to complete the siding project. A pair of sturdy extension ladders can usually make most wall areas accessible. Other options for those hard to reach areas include scaffolding systems, ladder jacks, and walk planks. No matter which solution you choose, always read the manufacturer’s instructions and take the time to perform safety checks prior to continuing the siding installation.

Finishing Touches

Now all you need to do is caulk and paint the siding. Use a high-quality caulking to fill the expansion joints where the siding panels butt to each other at joints and at the trim. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for any special requirements before painting. Using a premium, durable paint, cover all exposed surfaces and edges as soon as possible following the installation. This is where you can really get creative by using multiple colors to accentuate design features of the house or to highlight the trim.


How To Measure for Replacement Island Countertops

Start by measuring the length and the width of the island counter. Then note the depth of the overhang. This will usually be around 10-12″.

If you have a sink in your island, we will also need the width and depth of the sink, as well as what type of faucet you have. The sink’s faucet may be single hole, 4″ spread, or 8″ spread. If you have a built in soap dispenser or spray nozzle, be sure to let the team know about that as well.

Email these details to GNH, and we can provide you with an estimate for upgrading your island counter. We look forward to hearing from you!

How to Measure for Replacement Kitchen Countertops

Step 1: Measure the Length

Start with the length of your countertop. Measure your kitchen countertop from end to end. If you have an L-shaped counter, measure from the end all the way to the inside of the counter (against the wall). You’ll want to get the full length of each leg of the counter.

Step 2: Measure the Sink

To give you an estimate, the GNH team will need the width and depth of the sink, as well as what type of faucet you have. The sink’s faucet may be single hole, 4″ spread, or 8″ spread. If you have a built in soap dispenser or spray nozzle, be sure to let the team know about that as well.

See wasn’t that easy to learn how to measure for replacement kitchen countertops? Email these details to GNH, and we can provide you with an estimate for upgrading your counters. We look forward to hearing from you!

Freud Diablo Saw

Freud Saw Blades, Router Bits & Forstner Bits

GNH is proud to carry Freud Tools…

Freud Saw Blades, Router Bits and Forstner Bits.

Whether you are a fine woodworker or a high production cabinet shop, one thing is for certain… you depend on the best, most precise cutting tools that deliver superior quality finish with long cutting life. Freud takes to heart the time, money and creativity you dedicate to each woodworking project. That is why their philosophy is to consistently strive for perfection in cutting tool performance.

The level of precision that goes into each cutting tool is unprecedented in the industry. For example, each Freud saw blade takes up to 35 manufacturing steps. Each product is carefully crafted using the best materials, leading innovative designs, and the most sophisticated manufacturing process. Every product is specifically designed for superior performance and maximum life. Just like you take pride in your projects, Freud takes pride in their products so you receive the best cutting performance every time.

Stop by GNH Lumber in Greenville and Windham to browse blades and bits or to learn more.
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No-Coat Corner Bead

NO-COAT® Structural Laminate (SLAM®) drywall corner installs faster with superior strength and durability.

The NO-COAT® Structural Laminate (SLAM™) design represents a revolutionary drywall corner system that provides superior strength and durability, installs faster, and delivers bottom line savings in labor and mud.Continue reading

DeWalt at GNH

DeWalt FlexVolt Technology


This is the next level of power.

The DEWALT FLEXVOLT system brings you the future of power with cordless tools unlike anything you’ve ever experienced. With a highly innovative voltage-changing battery and a lineup of groundbreaking 60V MAX* and 120V MAX* tools to match, FLEXVOLT tools have the power that will change the way work gets done.
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