How To Measure for Replacement Island Countertops

Start by measuring the length and the width of the island counter. Then note the depth of the overhang. This will usually be around 10-12″.

If you have a sink in your island, we will also need the width and depth of the sink, as well as what type of faucet you have. The sink’s faucet may be single hole, 4″ spread, or 8″ spread. If you have a built in soap dispenser or spray nozzle, be sure to let the team know about that as well.

Email these details to GNH, and we can provide you with an estimate for upgrading your island counter. We look forward to hearing from you!

How to Measure for Replacement Countertops

Step 1: Measure the Length

Start with the length of your countertop. Measure from end to end. If you have an L-shaped counter, measure from the end all the way to the inside of the counter (against the wall). You’ll want to get the full length of each leg of the counter.

Step 2: Measure the Sink

To give you an estimate, the GNH team will need the width and depth of the sink, as well as what type of faucet you have. The sink’s faucet may be single hole, 4″ spread, or 8″ spread. If you have a built in soap dispenser or spray nozzle, be sure to let the team know about that as well.

Email these details to GNH, and we can provide you with an estimate for upgrading your counters. We look forward to hearing from you!

How To Install LP Siding

our host, Jeff Wilson, as he describes the benefits of engineered wood siding and demonstrates a few installation tips and techniques from Buildipedia.com.

Starting with the Trim

Because siding is considered a cladding material, it is necessary to have a weather or vapor barrier properly installed behind the siding. Be sure all windows, doors, and wall penetrations are properly flashed and sealed. Select trim that is compatible with the siding panels. You want the trim to be thicker than the siding, to allow for proper sealing where the siding butts into the trim.

Engineered wood siding typically butts into the trim pieces, so it is necessary to start by installing the trim at the windows and doors. This is much like building a frame around the windows, so be sure to account for the width of the trim when measuring to cut these pieces. Outside corners are typically trimmed with two overlapping trim boards. For the inside corners, rip a square cross-section, like a 2 x 2, to allow the siding panels to butt squarely into the corner trim. Eave trim and roof trim can typically be installed later, once appropriate scaffolding is set up to safely reach and work on these areas.

Installing the Siding

Once you have installed the majority of the trim, you’re ready to begin installing the siding panels from the bottom up. Generally, a starter piece is installed underneath the first course to simulate the typical overlap and to orient the panel at the proper angle. This project is using an 8″-wide siding with a 1″ overlap, resulting in a 7″ reveal.

  • Use a table saw to rip a 1″-wide strip of the siding.
  • The starter strip must be installed level and properly spaced from whatever is below it.
  • For an installation over wood frame walls that sit on a concrete or masonry foundation, the starter strip should be installed with the bottom about 1″ below the joint between the wood framing and the foundation walls.
  • For an installation over an adjacent floor protrusion, like a wood deck, the clearance should be about 1″, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
  • For an installation over masonry or other surface that extends below grade, the starter strip should be installed at least 6″–8″ above grade.

Attaching the Siding

To fasten the siding, use galvanized nails sized to penetrate at least 11/2” into the studs. Whether the substrate is plywood sheathing or foam insulation, most manufacturers require the siding to be fastened into the studs. Ring-shank nails are a popular choice for fastening the siding because they have screw-like rings that offer additional protection against nail pullout. Place the nail about 1/2” – 3/4” from the top of the siding panel to allow the nail to be covered by the 1” overlap of the next row.

If you are using a pneumatic nail gun, be sure that the pressure of the nail gun is set to sink the nails flush with the surface of the wood. If you find a few that have not been sunk far enough, hand-nail them flush. If they go in too far, you should caulk and seal the hole prior to painting.

Cutting the Siding

Engineered wood siding is as easy to cut as any engineered wood, like oriented strand board (OSB) plywood or structural laminated lumber. Any of the conventional woodworking tools, from handsaws to jigsaws, are applicable for cutting engineered wood siding.

  • A power miter saw with a 10” blade works well for standard crosscuts, perpendicular to the length of the siding panel, as well as angled cuts, as you may need against eaves.
  • A table saw is useful for ripping long lengths of the panels, both for starter strips and for long pieces at window and door heads and at the top course under the eaves.
  • A jigsaw is useful for cutting notches around trim and vents.

When measuring to cut specific lengths of siding, be sure to account for a small gap at each end that will allow for the thermal expansion of the siding. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for specific requirements; generally this is about 3/16”. This gap will be caulked later. Where you have areas that are longer than the siding panels, you will also need to plan for a vertical butt joint (with expansion gap) to fall on a stud.

Staging the Project

Typically you’ll want to work with a partner on a siding project, with one person at each end of the siding board. In that case, use a siding gauge to evenly space each course for the 7″ reveal. A simple siding gauge can be made from a piece of scrap plywood. If you happen to be working on the siding installation by yourself, locking siding gauges are available that provide a seat designed to equally space and hold the next piece of siding for hands-free fastening. As you work up the wall, check the courses for level every third or fourth course. If you find that you’re starting to get out of whack, you can make minor adjustments over a few courses to get back on track.

Ladders and scaffolding may also be necessary to complete the siding project. A pair of sturdy extension ladders can usually make most wall areas accessible. Other options for those hard to reach areas include scaffolding systems, ladder jacks, and walk planks. No matter which solution you choose, always read the manufacturer’s instructions and take the time to perform safety checks prior to continuing the siding installation.

Finishing Touches

The final steps are to caulk and paint. Use a high-quality caulking to fill the expansion joints where the siding panels butt to each other at joints and at the trim. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for any special requirements before painting. Using a premium, durable paint, cover all exposed surfaces and edges as soon as possible following the installation. This is where you can really get creative by using multiple colors to accentuate design features of the house or to highlight the trim.

Source: http://buildipedia.com/at-home/walls-windows-doors/how-to-install-engineered-wood-siding.

Freud Diablo Saw

Freud Saw Blades, Router Bits & Forstner Bits

GNH is proud to carry Freud Tools…

Freud Saw Blades, Router Bits and Forstner Bits.

Whether you are a fine woodworker or a high production cabinet shop, one thing is for certain… you depend on the best, most precise cutting tools that deliver superior quality finish with long cutting life. Freud takes to heart the time, money and creativity you dedicate to each woodworking project. That is why their philosophy is to consistently strive for perfection in cutting tool performance.

The level of precision that goes into each cutting tool is unprecedented in the industry. For example, each Freud saw blade takes up to 35 manufacturing steps. Each product is carefully crafted using the best materials, leading innovative designs, and the most sophisticated manufacturing process. Every product is specifically designed for superior performance and maximum life. Just like you take pride in your projects, Freud takes pride in their products so you receive the best cutting performance every time.

Stop by GNH Lumber in Greenville and Windham to browse blades and bits or to learn more.
Continue reading

No-Coat Corner Bead

No-Coat Product Spotlight Video

NO-COAT® Structural Laminate (SLAM®) drywall corner installs faster with superior strength and durability.

The NO-COAT® Structural Laminate (SLAM™) design represents a revolutionary drywall corner system that provides superior strength and durability, installs faster, and delivers bottom line savings in labor and mud.Continue reading

DeWalt at GNH

NEW! DeWalt FlexVolt Technology

THE WORLD’S FIRST BATTERY THAT AUTOMATICALLY
CHANGES VOLTAGE WHEN YOU CHANGE TOOLS: DEWALT FLEXVOLT

This is the next level of power.

The DEWALT FLEXVOLT system brings you the future of power with cordless tools unlike anything you’ve ever experienced. With a highly innovative voltage-changing battery and a lineup of groundbreaking 60V MAX* and 120V MAX* tools to match, FLEXVOLT tools have the power that will change the way work gets done.
Continue reading

How to Install Exterior Trim

 Centurion Trim

Claymark Centurion™ is the highest performing exterior finishing system manufactured by Claymark from New Zealand Radiata Pine.

 

Centurion™ is a timber cladding system which has been developed to protect your greatest asset – your home. This product has been developed specifically for the USA market and includes all of Claymark’s state-of-the-art technologies to provide a product that will last and which gives a superior finish.

The features of Centurion™ are:

  • Manufactured from New Zealand Radiata Pine using timber from well managed and FSC® (FSC-C008215) certified forests;
  • Manufactured to the highest precision strandard and with a high quality finish;
  • Produced from the highest quality finger jointed block;
  • The Tru-Core® treatment system provides excellent durability characteristics and protects against fungal decay, insects and termites;
  • Pre-coated with a 100% acrylic primer and UV sealant undercoat;
  • 50 year warranty against fungal decay/rot and insect attack (including Formosan termites); and
  • 5 year warranty on the paint finish (conditions apply).

Tru-Core® Treatment Process:

The Tru-Core® treatment process is a highly effective way to protect wood in exterior environments. The Tru-Core® process uses a unique carrier system that ensures preservative is carried directly into the timber to achieve 100% penetration of both the sapwood and heartwood. The carrier system is water based so it contains no organic solvent or harmful chemicals. The mix of bio-actives ensure that the timber is effectively treated for fungal attack and rot, insects and termites.

Coating Technology:

Centurion™  comes pre-coated with an acrylic  primer and undercoat system with the following benefits:

  • The latest in waterborne coating technology for safe handling and performance;
  • 100% acrylic compositon
  • Resistant to tannin and resin bleed;
  • A finish that provides better adhesion and flexibility for the coating;
  • Coated on all 4 sides for protection and enhanced stability; and
  • Claymark Centurion™ 5 year limited primer warranty.

Sleep Soundly at Night Knowing You are Offering Customers a Primed Exterior Trim Product that is Unrivaled by Any Other on the Market Today.

Click Here for Product Sell Sheet

LP SmartSide Siding

Exterior trim and siding can make or break a home. It can either look beautiful for many years to come, or possibly break down and cause further damage around windows and inside walls. With so many options, it can be hard to choose the right kind of trim and siding – until you know the facts! LP® SmartSide® Trim & Siding are in a class of their own when compared to traditional wood, vinyl or fiber cement. Both beautiful and exceptional durable, LP® SmartSide® Trim & Siding give any home the warm, natural look of real cedar, and the toughness of engineered wood. It’s the perfect accent to brick, stone or stucco homes.

With a full array of trim choices, including cedar texture, smooth, narrow or wide, and siding choices including traditional, bold, and cedar shake, you can capture that perfect look with your home’s exterior. Plus, LP® SmartSide® products resist Mother Nature’s attacks of fungal decay and termites, thanks to our propietary Smart Guard Processs. So, it’s an excellent choice for nearly any climate, especially areas where high humidity, sun, snow, and termites can take a toll on a home.

LP® SmartSide® Trim & Siding products offer multiple advantages over fiber cement. Unlike SmartSide, fiber cement products require special safety training, special gear to protect against airborne silica and specific cutting tools. LP SmartSide products are far less likely to break or crack than fiber cement. And LP SmartSide products are significantly lighter than fiber cement siding, which means quicker, easier installation.

LP SmartSide products work and cut just like traditional wood, taking nails and screws with ease. They’re factory pre-primed to take paint, delivering optimal adhesion and consistent application. Compare LP SmartSide Trim & Siding to fiber cement, and the difference is clear: LP SmartSide products are the smart choice.

One of the Most Competitive Warranties on the Market
5/50-Year Limited Warranty provides a 5-year,100% labor and replacement feature and a 5/50 Year Prorated Limited Warranty on LP® SmartSide® products.